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<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Sapo mb\u00ebrrit\u00ebm n\u00eb Prizren, se nuk kalohet aty pa hyr\u00eb n\u00eb qytet, vajza e madhe duke ma ditur dob\u00ebsin\u00eb, m\u00eb b\u00ebn nj\u00eb pyetje q\u00eb duket m\u00eb shum\u00eb retorike: Prizreni apo Shkodra? Ajo e di se i dua, ve\u00e7an\u00ebrisht k\u00ebto dy qytete, prandaj m\u00eb pyet. Nuk di t\u2019i ndaj, i them.
\nPas nj\u00eb pushimi n\u00eb qytet, vazhdojm\u00eb udh\u00ebtimin Gryk\u00ebs s\u00eb Sharrit q\u00eb do t\u00eb thot\u00eb rrug\u00ebs p\u00ebr Brezovic\u00eb, qend\u00ebr skish apo alpine, q\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb m\u00eb e njohur apo rrug\u00ebs p\u00ebr Prevall\u00eb, e nj\u00ebjta gj\u00eb, q\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb m\u00eb af\u00ebr dhe po frekuentohet gjithnj\u00eb e m\u00eb shum\u00eb.
\n\u00cbsht\u00eb nj\u00eb gryk\u00eb q\u00eb shkon p\u00ebrgjat\u00eb lumit t\u00eb Bistric\u00ebs apo Lumbardhit q\u00eb vazhdon e rrjedh edhe mes p\u00ebr mes qytetit t\u00eb Prizrenit dhe me sa di un\u00eb derdhet n\u00eb lumin Drin. Vozitja n\u00eb at\u00eb gryk\u00eb, ka edhe rrezikun, edhe k\u00ebnaq\u00ebsin\u00eb, rrezikun se nga ato kanione mund t\u00eb ket\u00eb shembje n\u00eb at\u00eb rrug\u00eb t\u00eb ngusht\u00eb por edhe k\u00ebnaq\u00ebsin\u00eb e madhe n\u00eb at\u00eb mal t\u00eb paprekur. \u00cbsht\u00eb nj\u00eb natyr\u00eb si n\u00eb Zvic\u00ebr, si\u00e7 e ka b\u00ebr\u00eb zoti dhe besoj fare pak ka prekur dora e njeriut.
\nLarg\u00ebsia nga Prizreni ne Prevall\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb 30 km, pra jo larg\u00ebsi e madhe. Mendoj se kjo favorizon edhe udh\u00ebtar\u00ebt nga Tirana sepse n\u00ebse nuk ndalesh n\u00eb Prizren mund ta b\u00ebsh at\u00eb rrug\u00eb edhe p\u00ebr 3 or\u00eb ose maksimumi 3 or\u00eb e gjys\u00ebm megjith\u00eb ndalesat. Do t\u00eb them edhe di\u00e7ka q\u00eb nuk m\u00eb p\u00eblqeu rrug\u00ebs. Kur kam kaluar para nj\u00eb viti, rruga ishte n\u00eb rind\u00ebrtim dhe besoja se p\u00ebr nj\u00eb vit do t\u00eb kishte mbaruar por jo. Gruaja madje kishte par\u00eb nj\u00eb foto t\u00eb rrug\u00ebs s\u00eb asfaltuar. Mir\u00ebpo kjo \u00ebsht\u00eb media, jep nj\u00eb pamje t\u00eb nj\u00eb segmenti rruge dhe ti mendon se \u00ebsht\u00eb nd\u00ebrtuar e t\u00ebra. Rruga nuk ishte b\u00ebr\u00eb ende dhe do goxha pun\u00eb p\u00ebr t\u00eb mbaruar. Kishte segmente disa kilomet\u00ebrshe t\u00eb riasfaltuara por pjesa tjet\u00ebr ende me asfaltin e vjet\u00ebr dhe ende n\u00eb punime prandaj duhej kujdes n\u00eb vozitje sepse si\u00e7 tham\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb rrug\u00eb malore dhe nj\u00eb pjes\u00eb jo shum\u00eb e madhe n\u00eb ngjitje.
\nKur ngjitesh n\u00eb Prevall\u00eb, t\u00eb hapet para syve nj\u00eb panoram\u00eb e mrekullueshme, fshati turistik n\u00eb nj\u00ebr\u00ebn an\u00eb rr\u00ebz\u00eb malit me pisha t\u00eb zeza dh\u00eb rezorti i skive p\u00ebrball\u00eb q\u00eb ver\u00ebs \u00ebsht\u00eb i lir\u00eb p\u00ebr pushuesit. Je n\u00eb zem\u00ebr t\u00eb maleve t\u00eb Sharrit, them malet sepse Sharri mendoj nuk \u00ebsht\u00eb nj\u00eb mal por nj\u00eb vargmal me shum\u00eb maja n\u00eb mes Kosov\u00ebs dhe Maqedonise s\u00eb Veriut madje dikush thot\u00eb se zgjatet deri n\u00eb Shishtavec, Shqip\u00ebri. Sht\u00ebpit\u00eb apo bujtinat n\u00eb Prevall\u00eb duket se jan\u00eb shtuar vazhdimisht. Aty njer\u00ebzit shkojn\u00eb, rrin\u00eb me nga 2 jav\u00eb madje edhe nj\u00eb muaj, p\u00ebr t\u00eb marr\u00eb aj\u00ebr t\u00eb past\u00ebr. Ka edhe restorante por shumica besoj p\u00ebr t\u00eb kursyer, blejn\u00eb ushqime nep\u00ebr dyqane aty q\u00eb nuk jan\u00eb shtrenjt p\u00ebr t\u00eb q\u00ebndruar sa m\u00eb gjat\u00eb aty. N\u00ebse rri t\u00eb pakt\u00ebn 10 dit\u00eb ose 2 jav\u00eb, mund t\u00eb b\u00ebsh nj\u00eb deal apo ujdi t\u00eb mir\u00eb me rreth 25-30 euro nata nd\u00ebrsa p\u00ebr net\u00eb tek, me siguri q\u00eb tarifa rritet sepse nuk kan\u00eb interes. Pasi ngjitemi pak n\u00eb livadhin p\u00ebrball\u00eb dhe pushojm\u00eb pak duke marr\u00eb aj\u00ebr t\u00eb past\u00ebr, zbresim posht\u00eb p\u00ebr t\u00eb gjetur nj\u00eb restorant p\u00ebr dark\u00eb. Ndalemi tek nje pik\u00eb shitje an\u00ebs rrug\u00ebs, ku shitet djath\u00eb Sharri i paketuar n\u00eb kavanoza t\u00eb m\u00ebdhenj dhe mjalt\u00eb. Pyesim p\u00ebr djathin e Sharrit, 25 euro tha, b\u00ebn kavanozii madh. \u00cbsht\u00eb i mir\u00eb por paksa shum\u00eb i kripur dhe i fort\u00eb, me nj\u00eb ngjyr\u00eb si t\u00eb verdh\u00eb. Nd\u00ebrkoh\u00eb, shit\u00ebsi, nj\u00eb djal\u00eb nga Qafa e Dules, Kosov\u00eb, na ofron edhe mjalt\u00eb, ve\u00e7an\u00ebrisht mjalt\u00eb pishe, thot\u00eb, \u00ebsht\u00eb i mir\u00eb p\u00ebr mushk\u00ebrit\u00eb. Marrim nj\u00eb kavanoz, 15 euro, pasi e provojm\u00eb pak dhe hyjm\u00eb n\u00eb bised\u00eb me t\u00eb. Na thote se njeh shum\u00eb njer\u00ebz n\u00eb Shqip\u00ebri dhe ka plot miq nga Kuk\u00ebsi, Hasi e Tirana. Na prezanton nj\u00eb plak q\u00eb rri ulur aty, q\u00eb ishte babai i tij.
\n-Ne vijm\u00eb n\u00eb Tiran\u00eb-, thot\u00eb djali,- vet\u00ebm kur kemi nevoj\u00eb p\u00ebr spital.
\n-Ndoshta marrin shum\u00eb-, i them, – n\u00eb spitalet private por ama mjek\u00ebt e, specializuar i kemi shum\u00eb t\u00eb mir\u00eb.
\n-Edhe t\u00eb mir\u00eb dhe t\u00eb lir\u00eb-, na thot\u00eb plaku q\u00eb ishte b\u00ebr\u00eb operacion n\u00eb zem\u00ebr n\u00eb Tiran\u00eb para 7 a 10 vjet\u00ebsh dh\u00eb dukej se ndjehej mir\u00eb.
\n-Atje paguaje nj\u00ebher\u00eb-, tha,- jo n\u00eb nj\u00ebqind vende.
\nM\u00eb tej, djali na thot\u00eb se n\u00eb Shqip\u00ebri ka njer\u00ebz shum\u00eb t\u00eb mir\u00eb dhe shum\u00eb t\u00eb k\u00ebqinj. Me nj\u00eb fjal\u00eb, sipas tij, nuk ka shum\u00eb mesatar\u00eb apo quaje normal\u00eb. I them se nuk ndahen njer\u00ebzit me paragjykime sipas krahinave, k\u00ebta jan\u00eb t\u00eb mir\u00eb, ata t\u00eb k\u00ebqinj. N\u00eb \u00e7do krahin\u00eb a, zon\u00eb, ka njer\u00ebz t\u00eb mir\u00eb e njer\u00ebz t\u00eb k\u00ebqinj.
\nPyesim p\u00ebr boronica dhe na thot\u00eb se zakonisht furnizohet nga ora 2 e drek\u00ebs nga fshatar\u00eb nga Kosova, madje edhe nga Shqip\u00ebria q\u00eb i mbledhin dhe vijn\u00eb e ia sjellin p\u00ebr t\u2019i shitur, t\u00eb cilat i shet brenda dit\u00ebs. Hajdeni nes\u00ebr, thot\u00eb se ua jap m\u00eb lir\u00eb se n\u00eb vende t\u00eb tjera. Boronicat e thara kan\u00eb shkuar shtrenjt, sidomos ato t\u00eb Tropoj\u00ebs deri n\u00eb 30 mij\u00eb lek\u00eb t\u00eb vjetra kilogrami. K\u00ebrkohen shum\u00eb sepse perdoren p\u00ebr \u00e7aj gjat\u00eb dimrit dhe madje edhe p\u00ebr t\u2019i ngr\u00ebn\u00eb me vlera t\u00eb larta si antioksidant\u00eb.
\nUlemi n\u00eb nj\u00eb restorant aty p\u00ebr dark\u00eb. Muzika dihet, kur je n\u00eb Shqip\u00ebri, d\u00ebgjon muzik\u00eb t\u00eb Kosov\u00ebs, kur je n\u00eb Kosov\u00eb, t\u00eb Shqip\u00ebris\u00eb. Nuk ka shum\u00eb klient\u00eb. Duket se pushuesit atje blejn\u00eb ushqim\u00eb n\u00eb dyqane dhe gatuajn\u00eb n\u00eb sht\u00ebpi. Q\u00ebllimi \u00ebsht\u00eb t\u00eb q\u00ebndrojn\u00eb sa m\u00eb gjat\u00eb p\u00ebr t\u00eb shijuar ajrin e past\u00ebr. Ka edhe nj\u00eb ndryshim Prevalla nga Valbona e Thethi si pika turistike. K\u00ebto t\u00eb fundit jan\u00eb n\u00eb gryka apo lugina nd\u00ebrsa Prevalla \u00ebsht\u00eb n\u00eb qaf\u00eb mali. Prandaj, besoj se edhe klima n\u00eb Prevall\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb m\u00eb e ftoht\u00eb se n\u00eb dy pikat e tjera. Po t\u00eb hap\u00ebsh n\u00eb google p\u00ebr Prevall\u00ebn, thot\u00eb se \u00ebsht\u00eb 1800 m mbi nivelin e detit. Vet\u00eb fshati mendoj se nuk \u00ebsht\u00eb aq por besoj 1000 a 1200 m mbi nivelin e detit.
\nNga ora 9 e dark\u00ebs fillon e ftohet dhe zbresim posht\u00eb me makin\u00eb n\u00eb hotelin ku jemi akomoduar, hotel Sharri. Jo p\u00ebr ta promovuar se n\u00eb at\u00eb gryk\u00eb ka hotele dhe restorante t\u00eb mira plot por p\u00ebr t\u00eb treguar p\u00ebr nj\u00eb bised\u00eb q\u00eb b\u00ebm\u00eb t\u00eb nes\u00ebrmen. M\u00eb b\u00ebn\u00eb p\u00ebrshtypje at\u00eb nat\u00eb kanalet e televizorit t\u00eb dhom\u00ebs. Nuk kishte kanale nga Shqip\u00ebria, kryesisht ishin t\u00eb Kosov\u00ebs, kanale serbe, italiane, etj. Aty banon nj\u00eb areal i p\u00ebrzier se d\u00ebgjuam n\u00eb kafe q\u00eb flitej serbisht dhe \u00ebsht\u00eb normale, fshatrat m\u00eb posht\u00eb jan\u00eb t\u00eb komunitetit goran nd\u00ebrsa m\u00eb sip\u00ebr \u00ebsht\u00eb komuna e Sht\u00ebrpc\u00ebs q\u00eb p\u00ebrfshin Brezovic\u00ebn e p\u00ebrtej, e banuar kryesisht me serb\u00eb por besoj ka edhe shqiptar\u00eb.
\nM\u00eb q\u00eblloi menaxheri i hotelit n\u00eb recepsion kur shkova p\u00ebr t\u00eb paguar, sepse ata nuk ta k\u00ebrkojn\u00eb pages\u00ebn n\u00eb fillim por n\u00eb fund, nd\u00ebrkoh\u00eb t\u00eb mbajn\u00eb nj\u00eb dokument identifikimi. Hoteli tba ka filluar t\u00eb nd\u00ebrtohet n\u00eb vitin 2006 dhe \u00ebsht\u00eb b\u00ebr\u00eb funksional q\u00eb nga, viti 2008. Pronari \u00ebsht\u00eb nga Opoja q\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb larg prej ketu, n\u00eb kufi me Shqip\u00ebrin\u00eb. Komuna e Dragashit \u00ebsht\u00eb e p\u00ebrb\u00ebr\u00eb nga dy komunitete kryesore, Opoja shqiptare me 16 fshatra dhe Gora q\u00eb thuhet se jan\u00eb sllav\u00eb t\u00eb myslimanizuar me 9 fshatra. Po kaq fshatra t\u00eb Gor\u00ebs jan\u00eb edhe n\u00eb Shqip\u00ebri n\u00eb zon\u00ebn e Shishtavecit q\u00eb i ndan kufiri. P\u00ebr menaxherin e hotelit q\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb nga Opoja, ai nuk b\u00ebnte dallim mes goran\u00ebve dhe serb\u00ebve q\u00eb mendoj se e kishte gabim sepse n\u00eb fakt goran\u00ebt flasin gjuh\u00ebn e tyre q\u00eb ka ndryshime nga serbishtja dhe kan\u00eb nj\u00eb identitet rajonal. Dihet q\u00eb njeriu ka shum\u00eb identitete n\u00eb jet\u00eb dhe her\u00eb v\u00eb n\u00eb dukje nj\u00ebrin e her\u00eb tjetrin. K\u00ebshtu goran\u00ebt her\u00eb paraqiten si maqedonas, bullgar\u00eb, pastaj dekadat e fundit si boshnjak\u00eb sepse jan\u00eb mysliman\u00eb, dhe si serb\u00eb nganj\u00ebher\u00eb etj. Nd\u00ebrkoh\u00eb disa fshatra goran\u00eb apo t\u00ebrbesh banojn\u00eb edhe n\u00eb Gryk\u00ebn e Sharrit. Duket \u00e7udi si jan\u00eb vendosur aty sepse nuk kan\u00eb vazhdim\u00ebsi territoriale me Dragashin. Pas k\u00ebsaj bisede, menaxheri i hotelit m\u00eb dhuroi nj\u00eb lib\u00ebr q\u00eb ia kishin dhuruar edhe atij, \u201cTrash\u00ebgimia kulturore e Sharrit (Dragashit)\u201d me bashk\u00ebautor\u00eb Muharrem Qafleshi dhe Valent Qafleshi q\u00eb flet p\u00ebr natyr\u00ebn, shtrirjen gjeografike, kultur\u00ebn, zakonet e dy komuniteteve kryesore q\u00eb banojn\u00eb n\u00eb Dragash, atij opojas dhe goran. Hezitova t’ia marr librin sepse ishte me autograf por ai insistoi t\u00eb ma dhuronte ashtu.
\nU kthyem nga ky udh\u00ebtim n\u00eb Gryk\u00ebn e Sharrit me mbresa t\u00eb mira natyrisht. Ishte vet\u00ebm nj\u00eb nat\u00eb dhe atje kur t\u00eb shkosh, m\u00eb mir\u00eb z\u00eb nj\u00eb hotel t\u00eb lir\u00eb dhe rri disa dit\u00eb sesa nj\u00eb nat\u00eb me salltanet. A do t\u00eb rind\u00ebrtohet rruga vitin tjet\u00ebr? Ajo rrug\u00eb malore do punuar me kujdes q\u00eb t\u00eb evitohen shembjet dhe t\u00eb b\u00ebhet nj\u00ebher\u00eb e mir\u00eb por edhe t\u00eb mos zgjas\u00eb pa fund sepse privon turist\u00ebt dhe pushuesit e shumt\u00eb q\u00eb duan ta vizitojn\u00eb. Kosova ka edhe pika t\u00eb tjera turistike si Gryka e Rugov\u00ebs, zona e Dragashit, Uj\u00ebvara apo vendburimi i Drinit, bjeshk\u00ebt e Gjeravic\u00ebs, etj dhe mendoj se duhen promovuar dhe p\u00ebrmir\u00ebsuar infrastruktura p\u00ebr klim\u00ebn e bukur malore q\u00eb ofrojn\u00eb.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Sapo mb\u00ebrrit\u00ebm n\u00eb Prizren, se nuk kalohet aty pa hyr\u00eb n\u00eb qytet, vajza e madhe duke ma ditur dob\u00ebsin\u00eb, m\u00eb b\u00ebn nj\u00eb pyetje q\u00eb duket m\u00eb shum\u00eb retorike: Prizreni apo Shkodra? Ajo e di se i dua, ve\u00e7an\u00ebrisht k\u00ebto dy qytete, prandaj m\u00eb pyet. Nuk di t\u2019i ndaj, i them. Pas nj\u00eb pushimi n\u00eb qytet, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":57921,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-57920","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-te-tjera"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/neutrale.al\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/57920","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/neutrale.al\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/neutrale.al\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neutrale.al\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neutrale.al\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=57920"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/neutrale.al\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/57920\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":57924,"href":"https:\/\/neutrale.al\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/57920\/revisions\/57924"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neutrale.al\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/57921"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/neutrale.al\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=57920"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neutrale.al\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=57920"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neutrale.al\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=57920"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}